Timeout in Kanish Bay

Looking out from the north shore of Kanish Bay, in a cove near the channel leading into Small Inlet. (Photo by David Stanley)
Most boaters transiting Discovery Passage are on a schedule, needing to time the flows in Seymour Narrows to the south or Johnstone Strait to the north to get where they want to go.

That need to be somewhere else seems to be a reason why Quadra Island’s Kanish Bay and waters further inland such as Small Inlet are not quite so popular as they deserve. Their proximity to the complicated waterways nearby tend to make them something of an afterthought.

Of course, some boats do end up here to await a turn of tide, often anchoring in the lee of the Chained Islands until the flow forecast is favourable. But the crews tend to anchor only for a matter of hours, maybe overnight, taking whatever weather window is offered and leaving little time to explore.

Looking east from the Discovery Passage, over the Chained Islands to Small Inlet. (Photo by Richard Chapman)

Kanish Bay would likely be wall to wall pleasure boats for much of the high season if situated in Desolation Sound Marine Park. It’s not, but that is part of its charm.

The large bay is like a hand, and Small Inlet, Granite Bay and Orchard Bay are its long, gnarly fingers reaching deep into Quadra Island. Here the shorelines are easily accessible, with sandy beaches where boaters can go ashore to explore.

Boats are likely to first encounter the Chained Islands, just off Discovery Passage, where there is good anchorage in settled conditions northeast and southeast of Bodega Point. The islets are fun to roam about in a dinghy or kayak, with plenty of drying shoreline where you can pull up and poke about. You never know what you might find washed up here.

This is a page from Salish Sea Pilot’s guide to Desolation Sound.

Good anchorage is found in Granite Bay off the community dock which services the fishers, holidayers and a hermit or two who live along the south shore of the bay. One hundred or so years ago it was a bustling community or some 500 loggers and miners. From here a road leads to communities in south Quadra Island.

The best protection for boaters is found in Small Inlet, accessed by a narrow channel from Kanish Bay. Here there are good depths for anchorage and lots of room to deploy generous scope. From the easternmost cove of Small Inlet, is a dinghy landing and trail about 1,000 metres eastward to Waiatt Bay, the wonderful anchorage near Octopus Islands Marine Park on the Okisollo Channel.

Ashlar Creek pours into northern Kanish Bay with Nixon Island, Discovery Passage and the mountains of Vancouver Island in the distance. (Photo by Denis Dwyer)

Near midway along the trail to Waiatt Bay is a path south, a detour marked by colourful ribbon, that leads informally at best to Newton Lake and beyond to Granite Bay some four kilometres away. Do bring solid footwear, drinking water and a compass at least, if not a handheld GPS, or both. Have daylight to spare.

Not surprisingly, some boaters we have talked to have seen Small Inlet only from the trailhead after walking in from their anchorage in Waiatt Bay or nearby.

While the trail is lovely and recommended, we think the broader perspective one gets making the voyage in from Discovery Passage is well worth the effort.

Learn more about our cruising guides to the Salish Sea and beyond.

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