Top spots in the Gulf Islands

Hiking trails overlook Active Pass and the ferry traffic that heads for Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island.
British Columbia’s Gulf Islands rank as a major destination for both US and Canadian cruisers, with many charming marinas, hiking trails, winery tours, and anchorages encircled by sandy beaches. The islands are busy in the summer with family cruisers and chartered vessels looking to enjoy long, warm sunny days on the water.

The islands each have their own unique vibe, so you can’t just visit one! And, in season, going to shore without a basket to collect wild blackberries would be madness if picking and eating wasn’t almost as satisfying.

During the dry summers, potable water is rationed on many islands, or not available at all, so be sure to take that into consideration. Don’t count on filling up water tanks at all docks and marinas in the islands.

If you have never visited the Gulf Islands, hopefully this list of favourite anchorages and marinas will help you decide where you may want to go with whatever time you have. Starting from the Nanaimo area, the list makes its way south, but does not include Victoria and Sooke – just too many splendid anchorages to include.

As usual, I’ll list marinas, docks and anchorages, and leave it for you to decide what you are looking for. I’ll keep the descriptions short and sweet. More information about approaches to the marinas, anchorages and park docks along with marina rates and services are found in our Salish Sea Pilot e-book guides.

Saysutshun (Newcastle Island): Great trails around the island through ancient forests, with many places to swim when the tide is up. The famous Dinghy Dock Pub on neighbouring Protection Island is a short run from the many mooring balls, dock and anchorage in Mark Bay. Easy to dinghy to Nanaimo for provisions; even easier to catch the ferry from the Saysutshun dock.

A young engineer tries to thwart a rising tide at popular Sidney Spit.

Silva Bay, Pages Marina: With a picnic area, a shop selling locally made pre-made meals, produce and baking, as well as books by local authors, and the nearby artists collective which features works by local artists, there’s something for everyone. Farmers market on Sundays in the summer.

Pirate’s Cove: Scrabble over rocks looking for treasure. Great hiking trails along sandstone beaches and more than 12 hectares (31 acres) of parkland. Many stern-tie pins available. Our grandchildren love it here.

Ladysmith: Anchor, or choose one of several marinas making all that the community has to offer easily accessible. Great restaurants, a new craft brew pub, Transfer Beach park, winery tours, walk the historic downtown and provision at nearby grocery store. Phew. This is a popular family destination.

Wallace Island Marine Provincial Park: Princess Cove and Wallace Cove are popular with both hikers and paddlers. Stern tie to allow room for more boats, but be aware of the forecast as some strong winds can enter the coves. Great summer sunsets.

Clam Bay: A popular anchorage to await favourable flows out to Georgia Strait, it’s also a lovely quiet place to drop the hook. Dinghy or paddle through The Cut on a rising tide and visit the pub and restaurants in Telegraph Harbour.

A deer watches passing humans hiking the trails at Saysutshun, near Nanaimo.

Montague Harbour: Spend the day on a sandy beach, walk the trails, have a meal at the marina or ride the famously fun bus to the Hummingbird Inn. Watch the sun set from the west side of Gray Peninsula. Popular for a reason!

Ganges: Aside from the Saturday Market, a major attraction in the summer, there’s much to do: wine tasting at a nearby vineyard, great restaurants, golfing, bike and scooter rentals, a public swimming pool or ride the island bus farther afield. Choice of marinas and docks, or anchor with care outside the flow of harbour traffic.

Otter Bay: Heated swimming pools, lawn games and a fire pit make the marina a great family destination. Hiking trails, Panda Bay Beach, a nearby public nine-hole golf course and a farmhouse/museum add to the list of attractions.

Winter Cove: Lovely anchorage and busy on the July 1 Canada Day long weekend for the amazingly popular lamb barbecue. Everyone is welcome. While there, walk to the point and look out over Georgia Strait. Maybe you will be lucky and see a boat going through Boat Pass.

Exploring the bounty of life in tidal pools on Russell Island.

Port Browning: Anchor out or stay at the marina and enjoy the pool. Pub, bistro, convenience store. Short walk to Driftwood Centre with stocks of liquor, bakery and groceries. Winery and cidery are within walking distance of the public dock.

Burgoyne Bay: As hikers, we love this bay. Lovely sunsets and views. Not much to do if you aren’t into walking, uphill.

Tod Inlet: Might be a bit of a detour, but worth it. Beautiful inlet with a beach, with swimming and walks in the park. The world-famous Butchart Gardens is footsteps from the public dock. There are mooring buoys near the gardens but they are often full. Very protected. Take a public bus to Victoria from here.

Bedwell Harbour: Canada Customs check-in from May to September. Anchor, grab a mooring buoy or stay at the marina which offers a pool and hot tub, café and all the amenities. Beaumont Marine Park has hiking trails including an hour-long walk to a mountain-top viewing platform.

Narvaez Bay: Not a place to be in a SE blow, but well-protected from most summer winds. Beautiful views on a clear day to the mountains over northern Washington. Wonderful trail to Monarch Head. You will often have this place to yourself.

Catching rays on the northside beach at Montague Harbour Marine Park.

Cabbage Island: Beautiful south facing sandy beach. Explore Tumbo Island, accessible by foot at low water and stroll the trails. Mooring balls. Typically peaceful, but in a northerly it can be a bumpy night. Been there, done that, couldn’t wait till dawn to get out! Watch forecasts. Shelter from northerlies in nearby Narvaez Bay.

Portland Island: Popular, so can be tricky to find anchorage at either Royal Cove in the north or Princess Bay in the south. Stern-tie pins at both. Great trails around the island park to secluded coves, a midden, and flat rocks. Can be busy on summer weekends.

Russell Island: Stands of fir, pine, Garry Oak and old orchards make this island a destination. Good tidal pool exploring. Old farmstead is now a small museum. Fair-weather anchorage. Kids love it here.

Sidney: Shopping, an aquarium the kids will love, a distillery, great dining options, boat repair services, BC Ferry terminal, a Thursday evening street market, and a downtown marina with all the amenities. Need I say more? Public bus to Victoria and bus or taxi to the Victoria International Airport.

Sidney Spit: Anchor, pick up a mooring buoy or tie up at the seasonal dock. Beautiful long sandy beach, swimming and paddling, walk the trails. This is a must-see park. Ferry service in the summer to the town of Sidney. Lovely sunset views.

Stay safe.

(The above destinations and many more are included in Salish Sea Pilot’s Cruising Guide to the Gulf Islands.)

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