Discovering Puget Sound, Part 3

North Sound, from Seattle to Port Townsend
and Deception Pass

This is the third of a three-part Discover Puget Sound series which has taken us years to get online. The first and second parts dealt with waters south of Seattle. Part 3, which my editor forgot to post online until now, covers Puget Sound north of Seattle.

Once the borders reopened and US cruisers were able to head for destinations up the BC coast, an opportunity was provided to Canadian vessels to head south, leaving suddenly overwhelmed anchorages, like those in Desolation Sound, to visitors.

When sailors ask me why I love cruising Puget Sound, I always compare it to a holiday in Europe. It’s great fun to eat in waterfront cafes, stock up on specialty food items at a farmers’ market, tour museums, visit craft breweries and window shop along unfamiliar streets.

Two years ago, we also took the opportunity to complete two boat projects while we cruised in Puget Sound. With chandleries and boat services nearby we were able to completely rewire Silom, with new AC and DC electrical panels, as well as install mast steps, mixing work and pleasure during a delightful season spent in the sound. We visited craft breweries and distilleries, had beach parties for two and enjoyed a summer of easy cruising with lots of meals out.

In the northern sound, Admiralty Inlet has several of our favourite stops, as well as often offering good sailing winds. Possession Sound may be a bit of a detour depending on your schedule, but worth exploring if you are making your way farther north to the San Juans.  Keep an eye on the weather as the winds can be stronger the closer you get to the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

Many state park buoys broke from their moorings during 2019-21, and maintenance was delayed by the pandemic, but 2022 plans to expedite repairs throughout the summer were reportedly a success.

On our last visit, we entered the sheltered waters of Fort Worden after a romping sail from Port Angeles.  Rounding Point Wilson felt like we had been transported. Beautiful sand dunes, calm blue water with a long sandy beach, children paddling in the water and several mooring buoys inviting us to grab one and head to shore.

We ended up staying several days. It was a delightful way to explore historic Port Townsend and avoid the marina expense. Although there is anchorage in the heart of Port Townsend, we found staying at Fort Worden more to our liking, although it can be rolly when ships and ferries pass by. Don’t bring out the fine glassware!

Just south of Point Wilson, Fort Flagler and Mystery Bay lie between Indian and Marrowstone islands. With mooring buoys, lots of trails to walk, wonderful bird watching and the fort to explore, Fort Flagler has much to offer. There is the old-timey Nordland General Store in Mystery Bay. Use large-scale charts and follow channel markers when rounding the north end of Indian Island to visit Fort Flagler and to enter Killisut Bay.

Further south lies Port Ludlow, one of the best-protected anchorages in Puget Sound with good depth and holding and lots of room for many boats. There is a well-kept marina with many amenities, and over 24 miles of hiking trails in the area. It’s home to many boat model rendezvous and yacht club meet-ups during the summer.

For a change of pace and if you have boat work to do, Everett is a good stopover. With a chandlery, fuel dock, boat yard and lots of docks to walk, you might find it more pleasant than you think. Visit Jetty Island, enjoy the many dining-out opportunities and the craft distillery nearby. In the afternoons you can be entertained by the many kite-boarders, windsurfers and sailboarders taking advantage of the winds which tend to pipe up. Docking at the outer docks for those with boats like ours, while affording scenic views, can be a challenge with perpetual tidal currents generated by the Snohomish River which spills into Everett Harbor.

Sandy Point is a lovely place to anchor if you need a change of pace from Everett. About seven nautical miles across Possession Sound on Whidbey Island, with a beautiful wide sand beach and a huge wharf, the lack of facilities ashore is part of its appeal. Anchor either side of the point depending on forecast winds, and ensure your anchor is well set.

A short sail away, Holmes Harbor cuts five miles into Whidbey Island from Saratoga Passage, almost slicing the island in half. Most of the tidelands in the bay are private, but there are two good anchorages. One is at Honeymoon Bay, half way down the western shore of the inlet. The other is off the friendly community of Freeland where you can provision and stretch your legs. We spent several hours exploring a thrift shop there and wandering along the shore. Holmes Harbor is generally quiet and peaceful, but off-season northerlies can make it uncomfortable and insecure.

Penn Cove, also on Whidbey Island, is famous for its shellfish. A public beach known locally as West Penn Cove has a reputation for good clamming. A popular stopover for cruisers is lovely and historic Coupeville. There is anchorage either side of the public dock if it is full. Go ashore for ice cream or stock up on groceries at the Red Apple Market, a mile south on Main Street.

Another popular anchorage is at the head of Penn Cove, though boaters will find little protection from strong westerlies here. The narrow strip of land between the head of the bay and Juan de Fuca Strait does little to break the force of strong winds. We once dragged an anchor there during a gale.

Farther north brings us to much-maligned Swinomish Channel. It does have its hazards: unpredictable currents and tides, shallows on either side of a narrow channel, but if you keep your wits about you and follow the channel markers (which flip colours at La Conner), it’s an adventure with rewards. La Conner is home to quaint restaurants and colourful pubs, and a boardwalk to stretch your legs. Time arrival at the marina or nearby docks for slack tide, 2.5 to four hours before or after high or low tide. Read this blog for more information.

Deception Pass is scenic and safe if heading farther north. Time it for slack tide, keep an eye on the weather and avoid strong westerlies in Juan de Fuca Strait. Wind against current can also make for unpleasant waves in the strait, at least until you get into the shelter of Lopez Island.

Cornet Bay is a good spot to spend the night and hike the trails while awaiting favourable currents the next day in Deception Pass. Time your arrival if you plan to stay on the park dock to coincide with slack tide. The dock can be full, but empties quickly as boats leave to go through the pass.

Bowman Bay is a lovely anchorage, with a sandy beach and beautiful views. Note that the mooring buoys have been removed, and only the floating dock remains. Strong westerly winds can bring uncomfortable swell, but in settled conditions it’s a great anchorage.

There is such beautiful and varied coastline in Puget Sound: large cities and bustling urban areas, charming towns, lonely stretches of shoreline, and a different vibe as you go further into the Sound. Cruising Puget Sound has, for us, continually provided a rich, fun and relaxing season. We can’t wait to visit again.

Stay safe.