21 nights on Van Isle’s west coast

Many people have asked us to suggest our favourite places along the west coast of Vancouver Island. When I sat down to start the list, it quickly became overwhelming: how do you select your favourites?

The ones below are those I consider to be “highlight” anchorages between Victoria and Bull Harbour, off the northwest tip of the island. They made the list for differing reasons: scenery, things to do ashore, security or ease of provisioning. Many others not listed are also wonderful; don’t think they aren’t worth visiting just because they didn’t make this list.

Whether you could sail the outer shore in 21 stops is an open question. Of course, as an offshore exercise you could sail it in a few days. But to sail to such a schedule, and still see all there is to explore along this coast, would be a challenge.

I can’t imagine seeing the west coast in less than four or five weeks. Doing it in 21 nights would require perfect conditions and a willingness to move almost every day.

The weather you encounter and your ability to cope with inclement conditions is key. Some of you may be quite fine sailing in 30 knots of wind, while others will choose to curl up with a good book and wait for lighter winds.

Also important is the type of vessel you have, its condition, and the gear installed such as radar to assist in fog. If something breaks, and you don’t have a spare, the delay can be dramatic.

If you wish to skip some of the places suggested, there are many other delightful alternatives. I have listed a few options, and a few honourable mentions at the end, to consider. As well, the Salish Sea Pilot guide to the west coast of the island has scores of anchorages, many attractive for different reasons or offering protection in different conditions.

Safe and happy crew make any trip more pleasant. Be prepared to miss a few places, or change plans if weather or sea conditions deteriorate. You can always come back and do it again next year.

Distances indicated below are in nautical miles, and are approximate.

Coming from the north, your cruise likely begins at Bull Harbour, at the community dock or at anchor. Visitors cannot go ashore, or leave the dock.

1. Sea Otter Cove, 30 miles from Bull Harbour. Tie to a hurricane buoy or anchor. The hike to Lowrie Bay is well worth doing. It is a four-hour round trip hike. Wear boots, even if it’s dry.

2A. Northern Harbour, 25 miles from Sea Otter Cove. Not much to do, but lovely and a shorter day than making for Pamphlet Cove, and good if you don’t need a marina.

2B. Winter Harbour, 30 miles from Sea Otter Cove. Friendly town if you need water or fuel or to do laundry. Grocery store.

2C. Pamphlet Cove, Drake Island, 35 miles from Bull Harbour. Pleasant anchorage with lovely lagoon to explore.

3. Varney Bay, seven miles from Pamphlet Cove or 22 miles from Northern Harbour. Explore the Marble River at high tide. The river trip was one of our favourite excursions.

4. Klaskish Basin, 42 miles from Varney Bay, 23 miles from North Harbour. Very safe, lovely anchorage with a river at the head of the basin to explore. Only strike against it: no VHF weather reception here.

5. Columbia Cove, 27 miles around Brooks Peninsula from Klaskish Basin. Hike to the amazing beach south of the cove. Afternoon/evening wind can blow up suddenly and fiercely, and die down just as quickly.

6. Bunsby Isands, eight miles from Columbia Cove. Anchor in Scow Bay or West Nook. Islands are fun to explore by dinghy or kayak and it’s an interesting short cruise through reefs to get there.

7. Village of Kyuquot, Walter’s Cove, nine miles from the Bunsbys. Friendly locals. A well-stocked store with good provisions. Walk to the beach and have a campfire. Follow the trails along the waterfront. Java the Hut café. Public Dock, no anchoring allowed.

DAY STOP at Rugged Point, seven miles from Kyuquot, on the way to Nutchalitz. Can anchor overnight in settled weather or spend the day before continuing on to Nuchaltitz, sailing on the afternoon winds. The most beautiful beach on Vancouver Island, IMHO. Take the trails over the headlands to the other beaches further on. Bring noisemakers and/or bear spray.

8. Nutchalitz Provincial Park, 18M from Rugged Point. Beautiful approach to anchorage, with lots of reefs and islands. Dramatic views. Great kayaking area.

9. Tahsis, Tahsis Inlet, 20 miles from Nutchalitz. A beautiful inlet. Westview Marina has a dockside bar/restaurant, laundry, water, showers, free use of marina car to provision at the store. Fuel is available at the Esperanza Mission, reportedly at a better price than Zeballos or Tahsis. Cell coverage in Tahsis. There is a  nice walking trail. A good break for those ready to be around civilization again.

10. Friendly Cove, 20 miles from Tahsis. Visit the lighthouse, the church and walk the beach. Dinghy to Santa Gertrudis Bay, and listen to the waves crash on the rocks outside. Closed for Covid.

11. Hot Springs Cove, 27 miles from Friendly Cove. All the superlatives have already been said. Closed for Covid.

12A. Sulphur Passage anchorage, 12 miles from Hot Springs Cove. Dinghy or kayak to 20-metre waterfall located about 1.5 miles away.  Best waterfall on the west coast. Pretty anchorage. Our guide shows where the falls are.

12B. Ahousat, 16 miles from Hot Springs Cove taking the outside route. Anchor at the head of Matilda Inlet. Trail to warm springs (not hot) and Gibson Marine Park (closed for Covid). General Store at the dock has basic provisions. Fuel available. Water from a tap near the fish cleaning station.

12C. Bacchante Bay, 13 miles from Hot Springs Cove. Explore Watta Creek. On the way there or when leaving, anchor at the Megin River opening and take a dinghy or kayak trip up the river.

13A. Quait Bay, East Clayoquot Sound, 14 miles from Ahousat. Lovely and protected.

13B. Kennedy Cove, 32 miles from Sulphur Passage. Explore the Kennedy river. Warm almost-fresh water for swimming off the boat. Dock with small waterslide on the east shore is a popular place for locals. Smaller local boats come and anchor for a few hours to swim and wakeboard. We holed up for a forecast gale and felt no wind at all.

Tofino, 10 miles from Kennedy Cove, is not a recommended anchorage. Unless you need fuel or to provision, I would pass on Tofino and go directly to Ucluelet. The public docks in Tofino are mostly for fishers, and the private marina is $3 a foot. The current in all the anchorages is fast. There are crab pots in most of the anchorages and the town is over-crowded. Do not take a non-motorized dinghy to shore as you may find the currents impossible to paddle or row against.

Night 14 and 15 – Ucluelet, 36 miles from Kennedy Cove or about the same from Quait Bay. Time Browning Passage since the current can run four knots. Marina manager in Ucluelet will always make room for you, but be prepared to raft. Basic laundry and showers. Easily accessed fuel dock. Town has a good supermarket for provisions. Rent bikes (electric or pedal-powered) for the day and be sure to do the Lighthouse trail. A Ucluelet-Tofino bike trail is under construction, completion by the end of 2021 so a cycle to Long Beach or Tofino is an option. Visit the aquarium, craft beer brewery, many small shops. Laid back and charming. A 25-minute walk to the Ancient Cedar/Wild Pacific Trail which is a good three-hour walk to stretch your legs and very scenic. Not a difficult trail, just long.

Night 16-18 – choose three Barkley Sound anchorages – my favourites are:

Refuge Island, 13 miles from Ucluelet. Bring a swimsuit to Lucky Creek Falls and enjoy the swimming holes at the top of the falls. Picturesque. Anchor between the unlit oyster farm platforms which are joined by ropes, so don’t go between them.  Lots of room and good depth.

• Turret Island, east of Nanteo Island, 48.53.953N, 125.20.811W

• Clark Island. Lots of beach to explore, “fireplace” for campfires, settled weather anchorage.

• Joes Bay. Large, kayakers beach, centrally located so good to explore other places from there if you have a powerful dinghy.

• Wouwer Island. Find the cove between northeast Wouwer Island and southeast Batley Island. The rough path to the other side of Wouwer is not well marked, but may be better trampled in a non-Covid year. The sun sets behind the picturesque islets. Good in settled weather.

• Effingham Island. Not so not good in a westerly, but large and sunny, with beautiful sunsets. Pleasant walk across Effingham Island. Trail access is in the narrow bay at the southeast end of the anchorage.

• Robber’s Passage, Deer Group. Picturesque anchorage with a lovely walk around the yacht club owned property.

While in Barkley Sound, keep an eye out for a weather window to do the Bamfield to Victoria leg.

19. Bamfield. Scenic boardwalk to stretch your legs.  Very secure anchorage. If you don’t need or want village life, spend an extra night in one of the other many anchorages in Barkley Sound.

20. Port Renfrew. Anchor in Port San Juan in settled weather in Thrasher Cove, or stay at the marina in Port Renfrew.

21. Back to Victoria or around

Honorable Mentions to consider:

Julian Cove, Quatsino Sound.

Klaskino Anchorage, nine miles north of Klaskish Basin at the northwest base of Brooks .

Battle Bay, northeast of Brooks Peninsula, across from Bunsby Islands.

Dixie Cove, Kyuquot Sound

Catala Island, Esperanza Inlet

Bottleneck Cove, Clayoquot Sound

Pinkerton Group, West Barkley Sound

Nettle Island, West Barkley Sound

Marble Cove, Deer Group

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If you have any questions about this blog or anything about cruising or preparing to cruise the west coast of Vancouver Island, please feel free to post it in the comments below. If we have an answer, we would be happy to share it.

See also a 40-minute video (below) of a virtual PowerPoint presentation we gave about the West Coast of Vancouver Island at the Vancouver Island Boat Show.

Fair winds and stay safe.